Lake Crescent

After leaving the Hoh Forest and River we went north, again, for a very pleasent drive along Lake Crescent. It seems to be a long, sort-of narrow lake as you make the drive along it on the highway. It shimmers and looks like it has jewels in it in light to deep blues and greens. The lake is a glacier lake carved out by a glacier many many long years ago. I simply could not get over the colors in the lake. It was so clear and beautiful. But we were lucky that we had a nice blue sky making for a bright day to bring out the colors. I had never seen glacier waters before and now I understood why everyone raved about them. There were mountains all around the edge of the lake making for wonderful photos.

Grasshopper Snack

I had a fun encounter with this little bird at work today. One of my co-workers had noticed that this small bird was hanging around on the lawn in front of the visitor center and was apparently not bothered by people being close by. After watching the bird for a few minutes we realized it was hunting for grasshoppers. Over the course of 10 to 15 minutes we watched this little fellow catch at least a half-dozen grasshoppers and swallow them right after catching them. I laid down on my stomach with my 100-400 lens to capture an eye-level shot of the bird. I was hoping to catch him with a grasshopper in his mouth, but wasn't overly optimistic that I would actually get the shot. Within seconds of laying down on the ground, however, the bird hopped towards me and plucked a grasshopper up from the ground!

Pair of Wooden Howling Coyotes

There are Alligators walking amongst us

Click on Video



On the 6th Hole Gary shanked a drive off to the left and the Alligator figured it was safer in the water. My drive followed him into the water!

The best money you can spend in the mountains.....

"To evolve, you must stay involved" Glen Plake





It is easy to get complacent and lazy. It is much harder, having and keeping a beginner's mind, the mind of a student. I have a hard time doing that myself. And it takes me a concerted effort to get there.



Couple of reasons for that. While I am curious I am not a very good student. I'm demanding and stubborn and head strong. And I don't listen well. I have to work at it. It might takecold hard cashto get me to listen at times. My cash! Worse yet I am not generally willing to do anything new. As in a new sport. The sports I do now I have been doing for several decades. Andin my own mind I am at least fair at them. It has taken a good bit of practice after all.I haven't done many...so I have worked hard at getting proficient at what I do enjoy. But truth is I aways want to get better.I've worked as ateacher enough to recognise hard case students like myself. It aint pretty. Wish it were different but it is not. A lot of ego wrapped up in all that.



So for me to want to learn something new, I need a harsh reminder that I don't know everythingall already :)



A good physical trashing ( or falling even once a day on skiis will do it) generally gets me off the dime and rethinking what I am doing and how I might do it better. But putting myself in the position of astudent, and with a beginners' mind is really hard for me. And when I do, I expect...usually demand, a lot. As I said, I'm a tough student.













This weekend is our local skimo festival. It is called Vertfest and has been held at Apental ski area for the last few years. It is a great venue that hasn't yet really seen its true potential. There is a lot of industry support from many manufactures like, Outdoor Research, Dynafit and La Sportiva among others.A full setof demo skis and boots. That has to be fun!








"Precious"@ The La Sportiva tent :)








The Vertfest race was a a great course of either one lap (for 2250' gain) or two laps (for 4100' of gain). My friend JasonDorais of SLC laid down his two laps before I had done my first one. Time I heard was around 1:15. Which is smoking! Even though I am not really sure Jasonthought it was even a decent work out. Others did;) Have yet to actually see results (shame on you VertFest guys!) But the ladies winner was no slouch either. Sorry,I don't have her name just a pretty picture :) If someone can pass it along that would be great.






Jason Dorais, the Men's winner on Scarpa and Trab









Theobviously happy, Juya Ghanaie,Ladies OA winner!

She also finishedbefore I got one lap done!



Congrads to both!!





10 minutes prior to the start





At this point the pack has broken up and we are gettin strung out.










As good as the skimo race is at Alpental, it is the demos and the following Sunday of clinics that is the real high point of Vertfest IMO.



For just under $100 plus the lift ticket, I was able to do two clinics on Sunday.






Not that steep, but there is a lot of ski base showing...so steep enough.

Alpental has a lot of steep terrain in bounds.






The first was an excellent " Steep Skiing" taught by Martin Volken of Pro Guide Service with input by Tim Petrick, currently working forK2. But a legend atPSIA and the US Nat. Demo Team






Martin Volken, photo courtesy Andy Dappen




Alpental offers some steep terrain. We generally had good snow and I learned a few things and was reminded of a few others. You had to work for a living in this clinic. And be a little careful as well with the crusty conditions and the ice the previous day under a foot of new snow. Well worth the effort. If you ever get the chance this is a "must do" with Martin.It was a brilliant bit of instruction and perfect demo of the skill set required to ski steep terrain. Martin didn't miss the chance to remind us that this kind of terrain wasn't "normal skiing with a full pack in the mountains". You need to be careful in the back country, out of bounds and inside a ski areas like Alpental. All good reminders, imo.



http://www.proguiding.com/



http://amga.com/about/i_mvolken.php



http://www.gearinstitute.com/gear-news/industry-news/item/ski-industry-icon-tim-petrick-returns-to-k2



http://psia-w.org/alpine/psia-western-alpine-demonstration-team/











Olivia Race, photo courtesy of the LAS web site




The afternoon was taken up by my second, 3 hr. clinic. This one, Sponsored by La Sportiva, was unassumingly labeled, "Intermediate Techniques to Improve Efficiency for Backcountry Skiing".

Ialways aspire to be more efficient! How could I loose? It was taught by Olivia Race from the Northwest Mountain School. I have to say Olivia's class was really fun. Low stress compared to the terrain Martin and Tim had us skiing.I had no idea what to expect on this one and Olivia's obvious skill shonebrightly in the three hours of instruction. I have always said climbing (and skiing) is a thinking man's (or woman's) game. Olivia reminded me of just how true that really is, again. My brain almost hurt with just 45 minutes of her one on one tutelage. But I didn't realise it until I was done and anotherof my fellow studentscame under her critical eye and gentle instruction style. While I mindlessly followed along happy for the mental break. That hasn't happened in a long while. Again,brilliant. Learning new things is hard work for me ;)



http://www.mountainschool.com/



http://www.sportiva.com/ambassadors/athletes/skiing/olivia-race



Anyone that knows me (or has read reviews here) should know that I don't offer compliments often or easily. And I am pretty picky on who I will go out tothe mountains with out reservation. I was lucky enough to meet three this weekend that I would add to that list any time.



No question, the best $100 I've spent on "gear" in a long, long time.





Hire a qualified Guide or Instructor and speed up your own learning curve! That can include climbing or skiing and any part of eithersport depending on what you are looking to improve.

Danny Friedman

Danny was always the guy on the other end of the phone.Danny I need200M ofrope. Danny I need 50 harnesses. Danny I need 100 carabiners.Danny works at K2, I manage a school camp. So it was a delight to meet him and find out he's a really sweet guy and a motivated climber.













Now when I say sweet guy, it turns out he's got a creepy side.





Like you,I browse the net for comforting stories about kittens and sunshine.

Danny's guilty pleasure is immersing himself online in the ugly world of gruesome crime.

I know, what a sicko! But it turns out he is a trained Forensic Scientist. OK, forgiven.



I feel sick, let's see some climbing.













Danny set off in , climbingthe modest grade of 21, to Turkey, Kaly and Ton Sai, picking up four grades along the way.













Then more Thailand, Castle Hill and Bluies. And before youcan say deoxyribonucleic acidhe is ticking "Spoonman" 28











Danny says his goal is to tick 8a by the end of his Euro Tour this year.

His friends say he is stronger than he thinks.

Senior climbing analysts here at jjobrienclimbing have reviewed the available data and can confidently predict he will better it by .





I don't want to make this sound like a dating profile but here's the twist:

He's a sweety, no doubt. He has a jones for Gummy Bears, butdon't expect him to sit through a Rom Com with you. He likes his films Noir, and his music on the dark side.

Danny is off to the Grampians tomorrow, presumably to leave his fingerprints all over Taipan Wall.

Theinvestigation continues.



jj

Nordic at Hyak ..

I discussed with Jennifer earlier in the week about getting a Sno Park permit for this winter. I wondered if she was interested in skiing and would feel up to it being pregnant. Jennifer was interested in seeing if she could go skiing and Ken wanted to go, so we headed out with him today. Jennifer didn't want to head to Cabin Creek due to the hills. She didn't want to fall. So we went to the Hyak Sno Park to follow the railroad grade.

The temp read 32° in the parking lot, but it felt colder. I put on all the clothes I had and couldn't wait to get moving. Jennifer had packed more warmly and wore a large down poofy to start skiing. Ken had little clothing but he hoped as I did that skiing would warm us. It didn't work for Ken, and he headed back to the car after we were out for 10-15minutes. I kept skiing along in an effort to get to an outhouse to pee. Once there, I warmed up a touch and started back. I saw Jennifer and she told me about Ken heading back to the car. I said we should head back too.

An interesting outing for the first of the season. Ken said one of the reasons he turned back was to not sour himself to the rest of the season with a bad first outing. While it took me the whole time to get back to the car before I actually started generating enough heat to perspire, it was a fun time. The snow conditions were better than any we had track skiing last winter. Soft snow, well packed and nicely groomed. Only there was a large group of boys (scouts?) that were snowshoeing on the groomed trail, and that is just bad etiquette. It also marks baby's first ski outing!

Baby on board

Hairpins

Only when reviewing the route months later did I realise that I must have climbed for 7 miles to the high point of Cushendall Road. Effortful as this must have beenon a small wheel folding bike, itdid not register as such in my memory. What I do remember: Ascending - almost like floating - through an expanse of short, scraggly pine trees, past a surreal lake with steam rising off it. After that, there were farmlands and more farmlands, with their scatterings of placidly grazing sheep. Before long, I was at the top, and now the foggy glens edged by the sea spread out in front of me. Looking down, it was hard to believe that soon I would be at sea level.




I was not, at that point, used to descents longer than a couple of miles. This one was around 6. It began slow, but the grade steepened as it continued. As I gained momentum, the surrounding grasses and the sea began to blur together with the fog, into one green foamy mess. I felt intermittently dizzy and sleepy. In the distance I glimpses another forest and welcomed the variation in landscape.




When I saw the sharp curve in the road ahead, it was a jolt to my system, even though I had seen the map and knew to expect it. From my vantage point, the hairpin turn looked like a giant version of an actual hairpin. Somehow I'd thought the distinct shape only emerged in aerial pictures, and could not be glimpsed as such in real life from a bike. But there it was in front of me, a hairpin sure as day. There was the flash of recognition of what was about to happen, and then it happened. I reduced speed, then reduced it again, and leaned, and still felt the violent yank of whatever force did not want me to make the turn. But I made it: Braking clumsily, drenched in sweat and on the verge of skidding, I made it. For the rest of the descent I was wide awake.




Another time, back in Boston, I joined a friend on an unfamiliar route through some local hills. Having finished a climb we were about to descend a high traffic road, and she warned me not to pick up too much speed. The wind carried her voice away, but I could make out "Sharp turn! ...end up opposite traffic lane!" Gingerly I cycled around the bend, which I discovered to be another hairpin. Again it stunned me that even with the cars speeding past, even with the row of strip malls in the distance, even with all my energy focused on making the turn while keeping my line of travel, I could make out the shape of the mighty, beautiful hairpin.




So that makes two so far, which is also the number of actual pins I usually wear in my hair. That connection bears no significance what so ever, but it pops into my mind when I use the pins - just one of those silly associations.




Some years ago, a Tyrolean friend told me - in great, descriptive detail - about the Stelvio Pass, with its 48 hairpin turns. A vintage Austrian picture book was produced, dramatic hand gestures were involved. When she said her uncle liked to ride his bike there, I thought she was joking. How could such a thing be possible, on a bike? I felt lightheaded just looking at photos of the bends, scattered through the mountain like pins in some mad woman's hair.

Solo on the Cassin?

I asked my friend Cosmin Andron to share some of his experience on the Cassin last spring.

Solos are always a journey. This one no less so.







"It’s been snowing for days and I am going bonkers at the Ski Hill (NE Fork) camp (cca 2400 m alt.). Tent bound since the 13th of June I start doubting I’d be able to get on the “Cassin” on this trip and I’m getting sure my acclimatization is wearing out by the hour now… I’ve listened my music, I’ve read my books, I’ve weighted my options all the while the snow was incessantly falling…





Then it’s 20th morning and the sun is shining and the skies are clear. Mark, back at KIA, mentioned something about a break in the weather for the weekend and I guess this must be it. I am weighting my options: go light – no tent, no sleeping bag just the stove, my Sirius down jacket and compressor pants and some bars and gels. Or plan for a three days ascent and go heavy: tent, sleeping bag, food, haul line in case I need to pull my bag, some cams and screws in case I need an anchor… It’s all about weight and weighting my options.



I’ve never done the route and weather proved to change swiftly. I may have lost my acclimatisation while doing book-worm work in my tent for the last seven days. Caution takes over the judgment steering and I opt for the heavy option; and heavy it is. "





More of the story here:



http://www.cosmin-andron.com//07/cassin-ridge-solo/







Cosmin picks up the story here with the gear list he used and what he might suggest or use himself now listed in the2nd column..







Cosmin sez:



Before I left for the Cassin Ridge I was worried that I spent too much time (7 days) at low elevation (NE Fork) and that the weather window won’t last longer than that day. I knew the route was long and all I had was a printed topo. I had to make a choice if to go light or go prepared to stick it out. From the info I had (through the grapevine) was that a Russian team did the route while I was in 14000 ft Camp and they spent 4 days on it. I prepared for 3, but I thought luxurious 3 so I can extend to 5 or 6 if needed.





Not knowing what was the condition of the route I took enough gear to protect some pitches if necessary.



I am usually cold so I erred on the side of warmth rather than lightweight.



With such a gear load and bivy equipment my priority was not to move very fast but safe, which meant that I spent a whole day listening music on Cassin ledge, waiting for the night and firm snow conditions. Second day I wasted half of it wandering lost within the first rock band.



In I started climbing at 4am on 21 June. By 8am same day I was finishing setting up my tent on Cassin ledge and took some photos. I spent the whole day (very warm day) on the ledge listening to music. On 22 June at 12:45am I set off. I am at the hanging glacier early morning. I wasted 2 to 3 hours fixing my broken old Jetboil. I spent 1 hour eating and hiding from the sun. Lunchtime I entered the first rock bad, had a rest near M shape d rocks and spent the next 4 or so hours climbing up and down looking for the route. I joined a pair of Canadians that came up and found the bivy spot with them early that evening. On 23 June I left the bivy spot around 2:30pm (allowing the Canadian team three hours advance). By 9pm on 23 Jun I reached the bivy spot above the 3rd rock band (5350m) and the Canadian pair who were just cooking dinner. They left early morning on 24 June, for the summit. I packed up at 4pm and left for the summit at about 4:30pm. I was on the summit at exactly 11pm.







All in all the bag was quite heavy for what I am accustomed to and I haven’t used quite everything. The pro I used was:



- an ice –screw belay 50 up from the ‘shrund on the Japanese couloir so I can haul my backpack over it. (I fell into the ‘shrund while trying to climb it with my backpack on when the snow collapsed)



- the rope to haul the backpack in the Japanese couloir, and twice while climbing off-route in the first rock band



- the rope to abseil four/five times within the rock bad (used natural anchors)



- camalot # .5 and 60cm dynema sling





I had dual points on my Cyborgs and combined with the heavy backpack and hard ice or crumbly ice I had to kick twice/thrice to stick it. When I climbed without the backpack on, it went smooth. Besides climbing lighter, next time I’d stick to monopoints….



Having a third tool (first time ever) was a good choice. On the last abseil within the first rock band I clipped my Cobras on my ice-clippers and because of the tangle I unclipped the umbilical. I flicked the rope over my right hip, the Cobra snagged and unclipped and tumbled down the pitch and stopped on a shelf. Just then the Canadian pair was coming up so they brought it up, but it was comforting knowing I had another tool in my backpack.



Below I made two lists. In the first one is what I had in June . In the second list is what I would carry now if I were to do it again. I believe that with a partner, with an tweak in gear, in similar conditions and

climbing competently we could do it with two bivis and leading on a single 8.1 Iceline (not recommended by the manufacturer). Trying it alone again, with the benefit of current knowledge of the route and with a lighter pack I believe I could do it without a bivy. In neither scenario I am planning on super fast ascents.





gearin June if I were to do it again



Equipment Equipment



BD Speed 40L (with lid) BD Speed 30L (no lid)



BD Cobra (pair) BD Cobra (pair)







Grivel leash BD Spinner leash



Grivel Matrix Light hammerGrivel Quantum Light hammer -



BD Cyborg crampons BD Cyborg crampons



Grivel helmet BD Half dome helmet



BD Camalots ( .5, .75,1, 2, ) BD Camalots (.5) BD



BD Express screws (4) BD Express screws (1)



Titanium pegs (4) Titanium pegs (2)



BD nuts (5) - -



BD Neutrino (16) BD Neutrino (6)



BD Dyneema 60cm (8) BD Dyneema 60cm (3)



BD Dyneema 12cm (2) BD Dyneema 12cm



CT Oval locking biners (3) CT Oval locking biners (1)



BD Oval wiregate biner BD Oval wiregate biner



Kong Duck (2) Kong Duck (1)



BD ATC guide BD ATC guide



Arc’teryx M280 Harness Arc’teryx M280 Harness



Beal Iceline 8.1mm (1X50m) Beal IceTwin 7.7mm (1X50m)



Mammut 5mm X 5m- Mammut 5mm (1X2m)







Bivy gear Bivy gear



BD Firstlight tent

Valandre Odin Sleeping bag



Foam matteress



Jetboil and small canister) Jetboil and small canister







Food Food



Adventure Food – B-fast (3)



Adventure Food – Meal (3)



Adventure Food – Dessert (4)



Powerbars (6) Energy bars (5)



Sweets (100g) Sweets (50g)



Isostar powder (100g) Energy drink powder (50g)







Clothing Clothing



Arc’teryx Rho LT top Arc’teryx Rho AR top



HH bottom Arc’teryx Phase AR bottom



Arc’teryx Gamma SalopetteArc’teryx Gamma Salopette



Arc’teryx Accelero Pullover



Arc’teryx Gamma MX Hoody Arc’teryx Gamma MX Hoody







Arc’teryx Dually Belay Parka Arc’teryx Atom LT Hoody



Valandre Syrius Down Jacket Valandre Syrius Down Jacket



MH Compressor pantArc’teryx Alpha SL pant







Smartwool Hiking Liner x 2 Smartwool Hiking Liner



Smartwool Mt Extra HW x 2 Smartwool Mt Extra



BD Guide (old) gloves x 2 BD Punisher gloves



BD Absolute (old) mitt BD Absolute mitts



Valandre down mitt



Valandre down botties



Arc’teryx embroid capArc’teryx embroid cap



No-name fleece balaclava Arc’teryx Rho LT Balaclava



La Sportiva Spantik La Sportiva Spantik



BD gaiters BD gaiters







AccessoriesAccessories



Salice googles googles



Iridium satphone Spot device



Cassio Pro-Trek watch Cassio Pro-Trek watch



Keymaze GPS watch



iPod Shuffle music player iPod Shuffle music player



BD Mt walking poles (pair)



MSR snowshoes W Rib access to route



Nalgene bottle Nalgene bottle



Camera Camera

I Don't Want You, But I Need You... When Bike Love Turns Irrational

Once in a while, I see a bicycle that is completely unnecessary for my lifestyle, and perhaps even impossible to ride given my skill level... And yet, that bicycle fills me with desire. Here are three bad-boys that evoke these conflicted feelings. (For maximum enjoyment, I suggest playing "You Really Got a Hold on Me" as background music.)

[Rivendell Bombadil, fitted with cream Fat Frank tires. Image from Bearded Peter]
The Bombadil is a clear-coated, lugged steel mountain bike from Rivendell. It is completely rigid (no front or rear suspension), and comes with a double-top-tube frame. I see myself as a Warrior Princess seated high over the fearsome double top-tubes and hopping over roots and rocks with wild abandon - my hair fluttering in the wind like a fiery trail and my face streaked with dirt (attractively accentuating my cheekbones)... Of course, I really should learn to at least mount and dismount a bike properly before entertaining such fantasies...

[A.N.T. Basket Bike, lady's frame, in blue-gray. Image from antbike]

Here is my most recent forbidden love: the A.N.T. Basket Bike, lady's frame. I do not require a specialised basket bike. But every time I look at this photo, I want to cry. It is so beautiful, and I have never seen anything quite like it. (Yes, I know that the idea of a transport bike with a small front wheel is not new, but they did not usually come with such graceful frames.) I absolutely love the classic Porteur chaincase, and that slate gray is one of my favourite colours. The overall look is at once so vintage and so modern and so... poetically eccentric, that my very soul cries out for it. Yes, my soul. These are some heavy feelings I am sharing with you.

[Royal H. Cycles, track bike. Image from Royal H.]

And finally, the most bizarre crush I've had: This is a track bike by Royal H. Cycles. The enormous frame is painted cream, and the lugs are meticulously outlined in a rich orange. I can't explain why I have such a strong reaction to it. I can't ride fixed gear to save my life, and I don't like orange. But I look at it, and it just seems so... perfect. If I gaze at it for too long, I feel the need to learn how to ride fixed immediately. And also to stroke it and feed it caramels while whispering sweet nothings in its ear... Is that wrong?

Monument Valley

Monument Valley is probably the most well-known spot in the southwest. Practically everyone alive today has most likely seen images and/or video from Monument Valley, whether they realize it or not. Many western movies have been filmed at this location and photos from Monument Valley are often used when it comes to promoting the southwest to tourists.



It certainly is a beautiful place and a worthy stop for any traveler, especially photographers. If you want to explore the valley beyond the scenic drive, however, you'll need to hire a Navajo guide. You can drive your own vehicle around the scenic loop which has views of the main features of the valley, but you cannot stray from the scenic loop road if you are on your own. These images were all captured from the scenic drive, as I chose not to go with a Navajo guide... although someday I would like to hire a guide to get some local insight into the area. I chose not go with a guide because of time and because of the conditions. If I was going to hire a guide I would like for it to be a nicer day, so I could enjoy it more.



It was very windy during my visit, with dust and sand blowing everywhere. I had been considering staying at the new Navajo hotel right in the valley, but with the conditions the way they were I decided to head further down the road.

(Above and below: There are some very interesting views approaching the valley from the surrounding highway.)

...And More Summer

Last weekend we saw a tremendous number of climbers heading up Mount Rainier and lots of folks just out for a day hike, picnic at Muir or getting some rather great mid-July turns in. Most routes on the mountain seem to be staying in great shape thanks to a cooler and wetter than average June.



July is one of the busiest months for climbing on Rainier, but those seeking more solitude should try for mid-week climbs on the popular routes, such as the DC and Emmons, or head out to some of the more remote west-side routes that are still in good shape. Also many thanks to the climbers who have been helping keep the routes and high camps clean during this busy time of year. We really appreciate your efforts.



Check out a couple of great trip reports sent to us by contributing climbers Bartosz Paliswiat and Scott Seitz on Sunset Ridge and Success Clever, respectively. The photo at right was also taken by Paliswiat. Guess Sunset Ridge got its name for a reason!

Off Road on the Edge of the World

A couple of days ago I accidentally completed a 6 mile off road ride along the coast of Antrim. Without question, this was the most challenging bike ride I have done to date. I would not have attempted it had I known what was in store for me. But it was also the most beautiful, breathtaking trail I have ever been on.






It happened like this: One morning I decided to ride to the Giant's Causeway, which is about 12 miles away. I took the direct route on the coastal road. The first part was a tedious climb, then a long descent - both with glorious water views. When I was almost at the end, I spotted a sign for Dunseverick Castle and stopped to have a look. The setting is very interesting, and I walked around a bit photographing it. The light kept changing every 5 minutes, so the colours in all my pictures from this day are crazy and I decided to leave them that way. The landscape here really can look neon green one moment, then golden or drab olive the next.





Like most structures described as "castle" along the coast of Northern Ireland, Dunseverick Castle is actually a ruin. There is an overview platform from which visitors can observe it from the road (people do coastal driving tours here...). And next to this platform is a sign indicating that there is also a walking trail - leading down to the castle, then continuing right along the coast to the Giant's Causeway.





I looked at the trail. It was grassy and appeared pretty tame. The Giant's Causeway didn't seem that far off. So I decided to go for it on the bike.





The trail ended up being 6 miles long, with no exit points along the way. As far as cycling, I would describe it is as not for beginners. I spent maybe 40% of it on the bike and the rest walking, or crawling. The initial stretch of grass quickly narrowed to a rocky, twisty single track along the edge of a massive cliff overlooking the Irish Sea.






There were also long stretches of loose, chunky gravel. There are no flat, straight sections along this trail - it is either uphill or downhill, and all twisty. Honestly, I found the terrain extremely challenging. Going toward the Causeway, the trail is mostly downhill and the ground beneath me was unstable due to the mud, roots, rocks and loose gravel. It was scary to experience this combined with constant twists and turns as I cycled alongside a cliff. Also, at some point the hub gearing on my Brompton started coming out of adjustment (now fixed), and I did not always have use of my lowest gear. This made some of the uphill sections on loose gravel impossible, so I walked them. I also walked a couple of the trickier downhill stretches. An experienced mountain biker could have maybe done 80-90% of the trail on a bike, but I am far from that status.




It did not bother me to walk with the bike when that was what I had to do. I had a heavy bag with me, and I was glad to roll it along on wheels rather than carry it on my person, as I would have had to do had I chosen to hike this trail. Despite the stunning views along this trail, there were not many hikers around. Most of the time I was completely and utterly alone, with no other human forms visible in any direction. I encountered three groups of ramblers total, and they all expressed horror at seeing me with a bike. "You need to turn back," a German couple warned, "it is not bike territory ahead." I knew exactly what they meant, because I had already gone through that kind of territory.






Along this trail there are occasional stairs built into the hills. They look like this, sometimes worse (longer and steeper). There was one particular set of stairs where the grade was too steep to walk upright, so I had to sort of crawl up them with the bike on my back.






Since the trail passed through farm territory, there were also occasional stone fences with stiles to climb over - essentially wooden ladders placed over the fence. These were a little shaky, so I had to hold on to a pole with one hand (taking care not to grab the barbed wire instead - of which there is lots) while carrying the bike in the other. All through this, it was of course freezing cold and raining intermittently.





Well, what can I say. One must have a sense of humour about things like this. Sure, the description of the trail could have warned there would be crawling and flights of stairs involved. But that would have spoiled the surprise element, wouldn't it. Ultimately it was more engaging to "discover" the trail this way rather than reading all about it in a guidebook first.





The day was hazy and my photos don't do the landscape justice. But this hidden gem of a trail showcases the raw beauty of the Antrim Coast better than any other site I have visited so far. It is extreme. It is dizzying. And not just the heights alone, but the colours, the smells, the forms and textures.





And it truly does feel like the edge of the world:The trail is set back from the road by endless glens. You cannot see civilisation; only the edge of a cliff on one side of the trail and pastures on the other.






Gorse bushes grow everywhere, their saturated yellow contrasting dramatically with the steel-gray sky.






It took me over 2 hours to get to the end of the trail, including all the climbing over fences and stairs, as well as constant stops for photos. By the time I reached the end point, I was exhausted and badly in need of food. The funny thing is that when I got to the Giant's Causeway itself it was absolutely unphotographable: Every inch of the majestic formation was covered with tourists. How odd that people will drive to it just to get out of the car for 5 minutes and have their picture taken on the rocks, but ignore the stunning trail that showcases the full extent of this area's beauty. Also, the entire site next to the Causeway is covered in construction at the moment. They are building a new, enormous visitor's center and while this is happening the area is a chaotic tangle of construction crews and tour buses and hordes of disoriented visitors. Dust flying everywhere. Yikes. I quickly bought an ice cream and got the heck out of there, deciding that I'd come back to see the Giant's Causeway at 6am next time to avoid the crowds.






The trail from Dunseverick Castle to the Giant's Causeway is technically a hiking trail, not a bicycle path. In truth, it is more suitable to hiking unless you have nerves of steel and serious cyclocross skills. Still, I am glad I did it this way and I admit that I feel a tremendous sense of accomplishment (I also still feel wrecked 2 days later, but that is another story). As far as the bike's suitability, I find that the Brompton rides surprisingly nicely off road and is easy to control on downhill turns, so if anything I am more comfortable on challenging terrain on this bike than I would be on others. Another obvious advantage of the Brompton on a ride like this, is that it is small enough to carry when necessary. I would not have been able to drag a full-sized bicycle (especially a mountain bike) up and down those stairs and over those stone walls. Next time I visit this trail, I might hike - or I might do it exactly the same way but try to stay on the bike more. This was by far the most difficult ride I have ever done, but it was also the most rewarding. When the two go hand in hand, it is pure magic.