Gunks Routes: Double Chin (5.5)

(Photo: Not too far off the deck on Double Chin (5.5).)



I'm sorry I haven't been posting this winter. I've been busy cycling, trying to re-lose the few pounds I gained over the course of the summer and fall. And when I haven't been riding my bicycle I have been forced to answer the call of the DVR. You see, if I don't sit on the couch and watch television, the DVR will fill up and no new programs will be recorded. Thus I have no choice but to watch the so-called idiot box, sometimes for several hours at a time. It is a tedious chore, but somebody has to do it. All these episodes of Portlandia aren't going to watch themselves.



Even if I had enough free time in which to blog, I wouldn't have written much over the past few months. There just hasn't been much climbing upon which to report. It has been a strange winter, with the worst Catskill ice season in recent memory. Friends have gone to New Hampshire for full weekends of ice climbing, but I am selfishly saving for rock season the capital I would need to expend in order to take a full weekend away. The result is that I haven't made it out to do a single pitch of ice climbing all winter.



There has been some consolation: I have gotten in a few days of rock climbing here and there.



On New Year's Day I managed a trip to the Gunks with Adrian and Maryana.



I hadn't led a pitch in nearly a month. I wasn't surprised that I felt a bit rusty.



We had our pick of routes, doing Madame G's all the way to the top and then doing the first pitches of Snooky's Return (5.8) and Friends & Lovers (5.9).



Adrian led pitch one of Snooky's. Following him, I struggled over the crux. I remembered it seeming so much easier when I led it in . On the other hand, the upper crux of Friends & Lovers seemed like nothing to me. I have yet to lead this route, although by now, having followed it three times, I find it pretty routine.



It was already growing late on this short winter day and I figured I needed to lead something, but I wasn't really feeling ambitious. I decided to try Double Chin (5.5). I'd been on the route once years before, near the beginning of my illustrious climbing career. My partner Greg had led the pitch, struggling for a while and stepping up and down repeatedly before finally pulling through the second crux at the very end of the route. When I'd lowered him to the ground he'd seemed defeated despite his success in leading the route.



"Do me a favor," Greg had said upon reaching the ground. "If you find that route easy, don't tell me."



I did think it was pretty easy, actually. And perfectly nice. There were two big roofs, but both of them were escaped to the left without too much trouble.



I later read the entry on Mountain Project, in which Double Chin was described as "a sandbag even by Gunks standards." (This description is now gone, but I'm pretty sure it used to be there.) Also I saw a thread on Gunks.com in which some people opined that the route is a real stinker.



These reactions didn't jibe with my pleasant memories of the route. On January 1 I figured it might be fun to get another look at Double Chin. If I liked the route the second time around, I could add it to the all-too-short list of fun but uncrowded climbs in the Uberfall area.



My verdict? It is fun, with two good cruxes. And yes, I think it is a little stiff for 5.5.





(Photo: In between the two roof cruxes on Double Chin (5.5).)



The first crux is actually the most technically advanced move on the route, in my opinion. As you approach roof number one, it is easy to step left to escape to the rounded outside corner. But then an absence of footholds makes the next move up the rounded corner seem improbably hard. A thin high step saves the day. I can't think of another 5.5 in the Gunks with a move like that.





(Photo: In the final crux of Double Chin (5.5).)



The second crux, at the final roof, is not really difficult at all, but it is committing and again unusual for the Gunks.



To the left of the roof is a wide vertical crack system. There are probably several ways to get through this part of the route but I found that wedging myself into the crack was the best way for me to move upward. It was good fun, with good holds and pro, and then with a move up a foot could be placed over the roof to the right and the route was over.



Maryana followed the route in her approach shoes (just to make me look bad, I think-- so competitive, that one!) and she seemed to find it pretty routine.



The second time up Double Chin confirmed for me that this is a high quality, unusual route. If you find yourself stuck in the Uberfall waiting for Bunny or Horseman you shouldn't hesitate to jump on it.

French Onion Soup

French Onion Soup, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

After seeing some great recipes for French onion soup, I decided to try my hand at the dish. The end product was a success!

The soup was actually very easy to make - it just took a while to cook the onions.

Anybody have experience with French onion soup?

Sunset at Big Lagoon

By the time I returned to the campground Sunday evening, a chill had set in and the wind had picked up. It was downright cold compared to early afternoon. But it was a nearly cloudless sky and there was already an orange hue enveloping the night. You didn't think I'd let it pass without taking a few pictures, did you?

Across the water, signs of “civilization” abound. In fact, condominiums, houses, and businesses are on three sides of the state park, but somehow it stills seems isolated and distant.

Clouds dancing above the observation tower.

Yes, I know, it is similar to the one above, but zoomed in and from a different angle. I like how the colors reflect off the railing and the water. The color changes in the sky during sunset never ceases to amaze me.

The Ups and Downs of On-Site Research

Six nights were spent at the campground in Guilford Lake State Park a few miles northwest of Lisbon, Ohio. It turned out to be the “ideal” spot for research in Lisbon and exploring other areas of Columbiana County.



My first stop for research on Friday (July 15th) was the Columbiana County Archives and Research Center (CCARC) located just half a block south of the courthouse in Lisbon. I knew they would be open on Friday then closed until Tuesday. I must say, the two ladies in charge – Shirl and Linda, both volunteers – were very helpful and friendly. You could tell that they enjoyed what they were doing and were dedicated to saving and preserving original Columbiana County court records and files that would otherwise be destroyed. The organization is six years old and their facility was opened in .. – it is already nearly jam-packed with stuff. Shirl and Linda and other volunteers are in the process of indexing the records and files they have received. It is an awesome resource and they are incredible ladies! I'll have more in future posts regarding what they found for me...



The ladies warned me that working in the Recorder's Office was going to be a real pain. It seems that the largest reserves of natural gas ever discovered have been found in western Pennsylvania and eastern Ohio. As a result, the gas companies involved have to do extensive research of land titles in order to purchase rights to drill for the gas. And that means they have virtually taken over the Recorder's Office.



I ended up spending all day at the CCARC and didn't make it to the Recorder's Office on Friday. Saturday I drove around Columbiana County. I had forgotten how hilly and curvy the roads were! It was fun driving in that area but the “locals” probably were getting a little upset with me as I drove really, really slowly! Cemeteries were found. Photographs were taken. Most of Saturday afternoon was spent at the library where it was cool and the wifi was reasonably fast.



Sunday afternnon I returned to several cemeteries to get better photos – the lighting was different. But it was very hot out in the sun. My campsite was mostly in shade and there was a nice breeze blowing. It was rather nice and relaxing to sit and not do anything at all for a few hours!



Monday morning I went to the “Records Office” in the Juvenile Court building where the probate records are available on microfilm and printed out the pages for four probate files (no fancy microfilm scanner available there!).



Then I went to the Recorder's Office. Of course, the tiny room was packed. There was one counter about 8 feet long and wide enough for one index book to be laid flat. But there were so many people that you actually had enough space to prop the index book up on the edge of the counter. Then, the actual deed books were not available. They had been microfilmed and cut into strips, rather like microfiche only bigger. And there were only 3 microfilm readers available. And if you wanted copies, the staff in the Recorder's Office had to make them and they cost $2 per page!



I stayed, perhaps an hour, and was able to look at one deed record. Oh, and the images? They were negatives. Very difficult to read. Basically, I attempted to abstract enough information so that I knew who the deed was for and got the description of the land. It was suggested that I get to the office when they open at 8 am as they weren't as busy first thing in the morning. Also, late afternoons were usually not as busy. I did go back later that afternoon but the little room was still quite crowded.



Tuesday morning I was up bright and early and at the Recorder's Office at 8:05 am. No one was there except the office personnel, at least for a little while. It never did get all that crowed in the several hours I spent there, not like it had on Monday. I was able to review all of the deeds that I wanted to look with one exception – and that deserves a post all of it's own! It was strange. As with every Research Trip there were some successes and some disappointments. But it was definitely worth the time and effort and the slight frustrations.



The weather was supposed to take a turn for the worse on Wednesday. Temperatures had been in the mid 80s with high humidity but it hadn't been totally uncomfortable. However, the higher temps that had been plaguing the states to the west was on its way to Ohio. I was hoping to avoid most of the 100 degree temps by heading northward. Rather reluctantly I departed Columbiana County early Wednesday morning July 20th.





My campsite at Guilford Lake State Park was right on the edge of the lake!



It was foggy the morning I left. Someone had left this chair on the pier, perhaps in anticipation of catching the “big one” later in the day.





Also taken the morning of July 20th. The view from my campsite. It was lovely. I really enjoyed my stay at Guilford Lake.

Baxter Springs

The first stop in Kansas was the Johnston Public Library in Baxter Springs, Cherokee County. Apparently an index to the cemetery hasn't been published, at least the girl at the reference desk didn't know anything about it. She did give me directions to the cemetery though.



Gravesite of Jacob Henry Parkison and Roxie Arminta Joslin Parkison at Baxter Springs Cemetery, Cherokee County, Kansas. Jacob is a half-brother of my 2nd Great Grandfather William Brubaker and Roxie is a sister of my 2nd Great Grandmother Malissa Joslin Brubaker Bower.



The marker for Jacob and Roxie is in the lower right corner. Several of their children and grandchildren are buried in rows to the north of Jacob and Roxie. It is quite a large cemetery and it took about an hour to find their graves. I'm really glad it turned out to be a nice day!

Sunset at Lake Itasca

Saturday, August 13th - - Lake Itasca, Minnesota - - After two days of mostly rain, it was quite nice to see the sun again when it came out late this afternoon! It was still very cloudy though but that meant the possibility of a beautiful sunset... I wasn't disappointed... It was magnificent!



I couldn't decide which one(s) I liked best, so you're getting several views...

The Incredible Journey :: Favorite Places

September 1, .. through December 19, ... One year, 3 months, and 18 days. 58, 727 miles. 38 States and 4 Canadian Provinces. 23 National Parks-Monuments-Seashores.



It has been an amazing ride! “What's your favorite place?” is the question I've been asked the most. It is a difficult question to answer but some places and “adventures” do, for various reasons, stand out from the rest. But I can honestly say that there hasn't been anyplace that I haven't enjoyed. Sure, the weather is sometimes uncooperative, the facilities might not be the greatest, and weird things that you have no control over do happen. But it is all part of the adventure! Even if I could, I wouldn't change any part of it!!





Niagara Falls. New York. I played the part of the perfect tourist by going to The Cave of the Winds and riding on The Maid of the Mist. And I had great fun doing it!











Maine. Visiting my cousin whom I hadn't seen in over 15 years. Kayaking. Acadia National Park. Driving along the beautiful coast.











Assateague Island. Maryland. The horses. The Sunrise. Quite simply, a most wonderful and relaxing place.











Big Bend National Park. Texas. It was here that I got my first taste of “real” hiking. And it was here that I discovered I was physically capable of more than I thought. And it was here that Mother Nature really turned it on – 80 degree temperatures one day and snow the next! I loved the range and diversity of the landscape. The mountains and the desert.



Chiricahua National Monument. Arizona. A delightful surprise with challenging trails. I was so enchanted by this place that I visited it twice! The first time was in the second week of March with a return visit six weeks later.









Death Valley National Park. California. Beautiful wildflowers. Sand dunes. Desert. Mountains. And a surprising up-close encounter with a coyote.









Grand Canyon National Park. Arizona. Specifically The Bright Angel Trail. I met my friends Sue and Fred for an unforgettable journey into the Grand Canyon. It was my first night sleeping out in the open, beneath the stars. And my first overnight backpacking hike. It was challenging and at times I wasn't sure I would make it back up to the rim!









Zion National Park. Utah. Angels Landing Trail. I surprised even myself with this little hike! Challenging. Frightening. Thrilling.













Hovenweep National Monument. Utah. There was a mystical quality about this place that captured my imagination. Thought provoking.









Mesa Verde National Park. Colorado. The cliff dwellings were indescribable. Not far from Hovenweep, they too had a mystical quality about them. At times I felt that the Ancient People were walking alongside me.







Montana. After ten months on the road, I was in need of a break. Thank goodness for friends! Susan and Don allowed me to rest and relax in their vacation home in southwest Montana for almost the entire month of July! Then it was north to Glacier National Park before heading even further north.







Alaska! The culmination of a long-awaited dream. The Big Adventure. A seemingly never-ending drive through Canada. Soggy weather. Denali. Kayaking. Glaciers. Whales. Bears. Unforgettable.







A special highlight of the Journey was being able to meet other Genealogy Bloggers in person: Apple in Snowville. Denise in St. Augustine in .. and again in ... Carol in Pensacola. Kathryn, Steve, Sheri, and Craig in California. Sheri for a second time in Stockton. A bunch of bloggers at the Southern California Genealogy Jamboree and at the Family History Expo in Pleasanton. And, last but not least, Miriam in Spokane. There was one other blogger that I met with but for some reason it never got posted and for that I apologize – you know who you are!





left photo: Miriam, footnoteMaven, Becky, Kathryn, Cheryl, Denise, Elyseright photo: Thomas, Joan, Becky, Randy, Miriam, Craig, and Susan



A "Page" for "The Journey ..-.." has been created that lists the States and some of the places I've visited. It can be accessed directly from the tab at the top of the blog.



I know that a lot of you - my readers - have come along with me on this journey across our marvelous country and I'd like to know if YOU have a favorite place, adventure, or photograph that I've posted. What did you like the most? Was there something specific that didn't you like? Tell me about it!

Cats in a Box

Last week we bought a new vacuum cleaner and the cats have had fun with the box. First Cassie crawled in the box and peaked out to see if anyone was watching her.



Then Murphy came and peaked in at her to see what she was doing.



Then Twinky came to see if Cassie was all right in that big box.



Twinky tried to get Cassie out like Murphy had done.(Murphy is solid black, and Twinky is black with white feet. Cassie is gray with white feet.)



Twinky got Cassie to come out so Cassie told Twinky to get in.



Twinky crawled in and peaked out to see if the other cats were watching her.



Cassie was watching and she thought Oh, good, I got Twinky now. and she stood on top of the box so Twinky couldn't get out.







And Wiley just laid near by and watched all the younger cats and the oldest one, (Murphy) playing with the box. Wiley decided he was to good to be playing with a box.

Leaning to Tie

Stormy and Travey are discussing this strange thing that humans want them to do of being tied to a post

5.10 Redemption? Bonnie's Roof Direct (5.9), Directississima aka Doubleissima (5.10b) & Retribution (5.10b)

(Photo: Eying the intimidating exit on Bonnie's Roof Direct (5.9).)After two days of great climbing in Colorado, I was feeling in shape for the three-day Labor Day weekend. Gail invited us to stay at her house in Gardiner. Of course Gail and I couldn't just ignore our spouses and disappear for three days. It worked out that we climbed in the morning on each of the three days, leaving the afternoons free for other activities. This worked out for both of our families and it was plenty of climbing for me. It meant that, putting the climbing days in Colorado and the Gunks together, I got to climb on five out of the nine days from August 26 to September 3. I've never had a run of climbing like that before.I wanted to hit it pretty hard in the Gunks. I was climbing well in Colorado and I thought there must be a 5.10 I could slay over the Gunks weekend. For some reason I had my heart set on Directississima/Doubleissima (5.10b). I knew in advance that this wasn't the easiest 5.10 out there. Maryana had told me she thought it was really hard. Dana had advised me that it was one to save for later. It appeared super-sustained and steep. But ever since I'd done the neighboring Ridicullissima (5.10d) on top rope and really enjoyed it I had been dying to come back and try Doubleissima. I just love that steep face. It calls to me. And I thought the pro would be good, so why not try it? I told Gail I wanted to go for it on Saturday.Gail suggested I try Bonnie's Direct as a warm-up, which seemed like a wonderful idea. Bonnie's is such a great classic line. The regular route, with its easyish 5.9 (historically 5.8+) first pitch and the exciting, 5.7 traversing second pitch, is one of my favorites. The first pitch was one of my first 5.9 leads in , and I believe I followed it once (and then led the second pitch) in , but I hadn't been back in two years, and I'd never done the direct finish.(Photo: Leading the regular pitch two (5.7) of Bonnie's Roof back in .)On Saturday the first pitch was a joy. That opening roof is so satisfying. The hardest move for me is the little stretch to get to just underneath the overhang. Once you are there, you can throw a big blue # 3 Camalot into the space behind the point of the roof and go. The holds are awesome.Soon enough it was time to confront the second pitch: the direct finish. People seem to think this variation is really hard. Dick Williams gives it a 5.9 rating is his book. Swain says 5.9+, and I have heard others suggest it is really a 5.10. It certainly looks challenging from below. A thin vertical crack appears to be the only means with which to surmount the big overhang.But looks can be deceiving. It turns out to be pretty easy. There is a bomber edge out there. I don't want to spell it all out, but look around, people! I can see how it would be really hard using only the crack to jam your way out. But using my patented secret edge, the initial overhang is pretty straightforward, and then the exit to the top, left past another two-tiered roof, is all jugs. I think the direct finish is no harder than 5.9. It is exposed and thrilling but a little too short. Having finished both ways, I think I prefer the regular 5.7 exit.After Bonnie's Direct went down so easily I was pumped up for Doubleissima. This was going to be fun. Or so I thought.Doubleissima kicked my ass.
(Photo: Gail almost through the crux bulge on Doubleissima (5.10b), after I bailed off to the right. Unlike me, she made it look easy.)

The first pitch was not a problem. There are two crack systems next to each other; both are 5.8. Gail said the one on the right has better pro, so I did that one. She also told me that most people combine this short pitch right into the next one, so I decided I would too. I got through the pitch without using any of my favorite pieces, and figured I might as well continue without stopping.

The real business begins early in the second pitch. The crux bulge comes pretty quickly off the ledge, and it is hard! The going is steep, and then a long reach is needed to get through the bulge to a good hold. There are intermediate holds but they aren't that great.

I wanted to protect this section well, so I placed one cam, and then another. Eventually I had three good cams in the crux. I wore myself out placing all the gear and fiddling with it. But the gear wasn't my only problem. I also didn't want to make the big move so I tried a number of different ways to get my feet up. Through all of this experimentation I did a mixture of holding on, then eventually hanging and falling. I don't even know how many times I went up and retreated or dropped down.

Finally I just went for the move and I made it. I was over the bulge at last, but the damage was done. My arms were on fire and with each step I wanted to place a piece because I was afraid I would peel off. The going was still so steep. I had expected it would ease off a bit more after the bulge. I was losing control. I had to admit I was defeated. At this point I desperately wanted to be off of that wall. I didn't even want to try the roof that is the second crux.

I saw a good horizontal handrail going all the way to the gully to the right and decided to bail. I headed directly across the gully to the High E rap bolts. We ended up doing less than half the second pitch. Gail, following the pitch, sailed right through the one hard part that I'd tackled.

I left Doubleissima feeling destroyed. I was totally drained afterwards. We tried to do another climb and I barely got through it. I was done for the day. I felt so wrecked I worried I might not be able to do much climbing for the rest of the weekend.

But after an afternoon at the pool and a good night's rest Gail and I had a great morning in the Nears on Sunday. (More on that later.) And on the holiday Monday, back in the Trapps, I felt like I was really climbing well again. (More on that later.) Gail suggested that we finish our weekend of climbing together with Retribution (5.10b).

(Photo: Gail cruising the crux moves on Retribution (5.10b).)

Now, just about everyone has toproped Retribution (and its neighbor Nosedive (5.10b)) at one time or another. It sits right there tempting you at the beginning of the cliff near the parking lot, looming directly above the carriage road. And it is so easy to set it up by running up Bunny (5.4) to the left.

For the longest time I avoided toproping or following Retribution because I was saving it for the onsight. I wanted to walk up and lead it without any rehearsal. In there were several occasions on which I nearly gave it a whirl.

But I never did, and then I broke my ankle and spent a year recovering my lead head. Along the way I gave up all that baloney about saving climbs for the onsight and ended up toproping it once with Vass, and then following both Adrian and Maryana up Retribution when they led it on separate occasions.

So when Gail suggested that I lead it on Monday I was already familiar with the demands of the climb. And I knew that even though it, like Doubleissima, is rated 5.10b, Retribution is a much much easier climb than Doubleissima. The crux is short, just moving past the little roof. The rest of the way is 5.8 or 5.9. My only real worry was that I'd get through the crux but be exhausted and then fall before getting good gear in the shallow corner directly above the roof. Or that in a spate of nervousness I'd blow the crux and never make it over the roof.

I needn't have worried. It went fine. I felt really good. My footwork was solid and the fingerlocks in the crux felt huge. I scampered past the roof and up the little corner, alarming Gail a little with how long I continued before placing gear above the roof.

This was my first 5.10b trad lead. Though I was happy about it I didn't feel like it erased my fiasco on Doubleissima, from which I stumbled off feeling like I wasn't even close to ready to lead 5.10b. But with the rosy glow of hindsight I'm starting to feel like trying Doubleissima again. Even though I failed, I was never unsafe. If I can place two of the three pieces I had last time, but put them in quickly, and then go for the move through the bulge right away-- no hesitation-- then maybe I could get it. Just maybe.