Glacier :: Highline Trail

The next morning (Tuesday July 27th) I drove the Going to the Sun Road. The shuttles are nice and you have the opportunity to look at the tremendous views as you are riding, but it is nearly impossible to get good photos through the window of the moving bus! Also, the shuttle does not stop at any of the overlooks.

Taken from about a third of the way up the road.

A little further up the road with the road visible on the right. Steep drop-offs were the norm with guardrails in only some sections.

Nearing Logan Pass. This was taken from the Highline Trail. Construction along the highway can cause delays of up to half and hour in several different sections. It took me 1.5 hours to get to Logan Pass and another 1.5 hours to get to the east side entrance at St. Marys.

The Highline Trail, which begins at Logan Pass on the Going to the Sun Road, is one of the premier hiking trails at Glacier National Park. I only walked the first mile or so where it hovers several hundred feet above the Going to the Sun Road. This section of trail was rather wide in most places, perhaps 5-6 feet, but narrowed to less than 2 feet in some spots. They did have a chain threaded through water hoses and attached to the mountain side for you to hang onto if you felt the need...

A portion of the Highline trail on the left (in the shade), Going to the Sun Road winding up the hill, and Clements Mountain in the background.

Wildflowers were in bloom, scattered here and there, clinging to the walls of the mountain.

Another view of the Going to the Sun Road and Clements Mountain. Waterfalls graced the sides of the valley – one can be seen in the lower right corner.

Chuck Norris and the Mortal, M8r/x, WI7 90m. aka "Chucky"

"Chucky"



Y'all be careful out there!

Banks Lake, Mile Marker 11.2










FA "Chuck Norris & the Mortal"

A2, M8 WI7, 2P, 90m.

Craig Pope, Scott Coldiron, Jan. 31,



Second ascent and

FFA "Chuck Norris & the Mortal", AKA "Chucky"

M8 r/x WI7, 2P, 90m.

Craig Pope, Jess Roskelley, Feb, 2,



Rack:

Small set of nuts

C3's

MasterCams

knifeblades

BD Peckers

BD Specter

Stubbies

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Steep intro moves to p1

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P1 ice was de-laminated to the point of rock pro only. Slung a gas pocket.

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Shakin off the cold...

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Bottom pitch with 2nd Looming above

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More detail of the crazy

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Top of 2nd p crux - PUMP!

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Delicately sneaking up...

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First "rest..."

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Sizing up the never ending madness!

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Snapping a quick shot - cause I HAD too!! 30 ft out from a BD 000 C3 equalized with
a #1 knifeblade...so wild, even after I cleared a ton if ice...

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Peaking out of the hole I carved out of a curtain...SUPER bummed about the fog...

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Throwing up a hell yeah before dancing up the last 60 ft.

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Looking down into space from the final belay...




http://player.vimeo.com/video/59181866"





editor's note:

Really fun for me to add one of the best mixed climbs I have seen locally and a BIG Congratulations!... to Craig, Jess and Scott for getting it done!

Revisiting Captain Cave Man M7+

Several days ago I heard from Joel Torretti. Joel is a talented PA ice/rock climber that moved away for several years and recently returned to PA and is living up near State College. He was looking to get out and do some tooled climbing. He was excited to be making his first outing of the season. He made the 2.5 hour drive down to our neck of the woods to see what we could do. We checked out the conditions at several of the local areas, SCII and the So. C'ville rod and gun club. Both being not of great condition, we opted to go check out Lower Meadow Run in Ohiopyle. Not to my surprise, the ice was dismal for pure ice climbing. Not a big deal, we opted to get on the great mixed lines. We started on Anger Managment M5 as our warm up. After pumping on that one, Joel tried the obvious "project" line out the center of the cave. Still a project and to all who have tried it, you know why... The next climb we go on was Captain Caveman M7+ a new line that I TRed at the end of last season in much fatter conditions. Joel went first solving the near iceless start to the line. He made it up through the opening moves only to have a crampon slip of and send him into the air. He passed the rope and I tied in for my attempt. I was happy to see Joel smooth the bottom moves (I was a little uncertain that it would go with so little ice). I moved up through the opening making it to the large ledge on the left. I was happy to throw a heel and get a rest. I proceeded to make my way up through the overhanging rockband to the much appreciated ice. The top posed the problem that it was delaminating from the rock like mad. I gently made my way through this section using various dry moves as well as several very insecure ice sticks. I was glad to get it first go. It took me several days of work to get it last year (in much fatter conditions). Joel tied in and took a second go working through the moves and getting a good pump in the process. After our goes on CCM, we went over and did a few laps each on the ever fun Season Finale M6. It was a blast revisiting Captain Cave Man with Joel. Since getting it no falls, first go on TR, I'm really motivated to give it a whirl on the sharp end before it gets wired. Possibly this upcoming week I'll grow a set and do it. I'll be sure to post how it goes. It was a great day climbing with an old friend, I look forward to many great days out this season.

Black Diamond Express Ice Screws?

Jeff Shapiro climbing hard,fully kitted inBD with a rack of Express screws



I have a couple of drafts started in the blog about eating my words on gear. Hadn't finished any of them of course because it is really hard for me to convince ME, I am ever wrong :) Weak, I know, but here isthe first.









Few that don't know me can understand the time I have spent at my desk or at the workbench in the shop measuring, sharpening or just examiningice screws. A couple of my climbing partners have seen me wind in dual screws at placements on climbs and wondered just how much of a knuckle head I was going to be that day. Andif I could just get on with it!If I am placing dual screws it is generally because I am scared but I can go with the gear testing story when pushed.



But, with all the playing around I at least *think* I know something about ice screws.



When you understand what makes the teeth bite and how much each screw weights and why there isn't much else to understand. Simple pieces of gear really...well pretty simple anyway.



So you have to understand that I know Black Diamond has a better set of teeth than most anyone making screws. And no question the Black Diamond Express screws will take a "set" faster than anything else I use. By taking a "set", what I mean by that is the screw will generally catch the threads with a a single full turn at the wrist and stick in the ice so you can now employ the hanger's crank knob.



True, the Black Diamond screw is faster than the Grivel Helix on the "set".



But in a perfect world you have severalstepsto placing an ice screw, the "set", the wind and finally the clip.



If we have a "set", then the wind and finally the clip to eachscrew placement theneach step is equally important to me. On difficult climbing how long it takes me to fully place a screw defines how many screws I will place. I can decide to place screws inseveral ways. The first is by the difficulty of the climbing. I place screws often because I am likely to fall off at any given moment. Thatis not how I like to climb on ice. Umbilicals are my first line of defense so my preferred wayis to place fewer screws. It is an old habit I have from the days when screws were extremely hard to place. None of the screws available now have that unenviable reputation. So thescrews I do place better be bomber and take as little time as possible to get in. Time is a factor because if the climbing is difficult and steep, endurance and strength is always inquestion. I want to end the pitch strong enough to finish with a reserve. I don't want to ever fall on ice.



So from my own observations I thinkthat the BDExpress is the first screw to "set". If it only ended there the conversation would be over. Next up is the wind. So your screw is set and there is little fear of it launching into space unattended. You can now grab your winding knoband sink the screw to the hilt. Done. Almost finishedhere...snap a QD or slingbiner on. Thengrab your rope to make the final clip. And now you are off again climbingor just as likely, relieved,taking a mental break and shaking your arms with no risk of catching big air.



Whaaaoooo! Not quite that fast. There are a couple of steps we missed here. You likely are a smart climber so you racked all your Express screws with the winding knob up and open right? Well I don't. So I "set", then turn my winding knob up, (good place to kick a "free" screw loose into space), then I start to wind. Sink the screw, clip the screw, then clip the rope and finally flip the knob down. Gotta remember to flip that knob down. ( can't wait to hear how everyone else muddles through this better than me, as obviously many do:)



So easy to see my dilemma with a fast "bite" as oppose to a fast screw placement. I like the Express and own a rack of them specifically for hard alpine ice. They are lighter than anything available and they 'set" amazingly fast. But they don't placefast enoughto be my preferred screw onwater fall climbing.



*Since I am looking at thedetailshereI had forgotten this one. I think the offset hanger on the BD screws encourages you to start the wind off center to the axis of the screw. So you get a wobbly start if you are notvery careful. Obviously you can over come this with practice. But for the newbie or gumbie like myself it is annoying. The hand position on the Helix (at least for my XL size hands) naturally encourages you to be more centered to the axis of the screw on your *set*. That alone almost makes up for the better design on the BD teeth imo. And in practice makes the *set* on the Helix almost as fast, if not as fast, as the BD screw for me.



What I would liketo see is the BD tube and teethwith a totally new hanger. No knob to futz with, but a big winder, a hanger that naturally centers your hand for a straight drive on the *set* and keep the BD weight advantage.Easy enough to do. BD has the technology in house right now for a hanger as I described it. I had come to the same conclusion last winter just got there from a totally different train of thought. Not likely to happen any time soon though :) No one convinced it is needed except me.*



Damn, just wish my own screw of choice"set" that fast though......gotta think some more on this :)





Jeff again, on the 5th pitch, STH, Provo Canyon

More here on the BD Express screw:http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//01/be-attentive-when-placing-ice-screws.html

Kitten Energy

Oh, to have the energy of an 8 month old kitten.
Willey attacking Murphy.

Bobcat Valentine

Jackpot! Two bobcats (Lynx rufus or Felis rufus) traveling together.

I'm assuming that this is a male and female, since it's bobcat breeding season.

Bridge Across the Ditch

This little bridge that was on the pathway to the river trail is over one of the main irrigation ditches that take water to irrigate the small farms along the Rio Grande River.