The homeboys and girls!

Gwain above the difficut crack, Sept.'78.





Not really home...or even close. But a great effort by some friends on the Eiger the last few weeks. All fast one day climbs! Congrads to all six. I suspect they (Colin and Nils already do) will all have some great photos up soon. Jon as always packed his huge SLR on route. Check'um out.







Will Sim and Jon Griffith



Nice hammer on that Nomic :-)



http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions



http://willsim.blogspot.com/



Caroline and Adam George...



http://intothemountains.com/



http://carolinegeorge.blogspot.com/



http://www.travelblog.org/Bloggers/SwissMiss/



Colin and Nils



Colin Haley Photo



http://colinhaley.blogspot.com//04/verte-courtes-doites-eiger.html



http://www.alpineaddiction.no/?tag=eiger

The Climbing Season Starts at Mount Rainier

Get ready, get set...the climbing ranger season has begun!

Climbing rangers are now staffing Camp Muir and the information desk at the Jackson Visitor Center (which is now open daily) to issue climbing permits.

Here's the current schedule for the JVC and for climbing information:

JVC Schedule May 3 -- June 6
10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily except Saturdays, when it opens at 6 a.m.

Climbing rangers staff the JVC on weekends in May from 6 a.m to noon Saturday

Note that you can get a climbing permit at the JVC when it is open, even if the climbing rangers aren't there to issue it. Also, while the NPS transitions from winter to spring weather (there is still 5 feet snow in Longmire), be sure to call ahead for weather and road conditions.

To get you pumped about the upcoming good weather, we've posted a few new trip reports, featuring the Fuhrer Finger and Gib Ledges, and one about the ever-popular Muir Snowfield.

Elsewhere you can read about David Brown and Hannah Carrigan's trip up Gib Ledges and ski descent down the Kautz Glacier, as well as a trip report from Kyle Miller and Scott Stuglemyer about their splitboard expedition to Fay Peak - during which they dug out the Mowich Lake ranger station along the way (thanks guys!)
(Photo of Fay Peak ascent by Kyle Miller)

Choosing a Transportation Bicycle? Some Ideas to Consider

Every spring I receive requests for advice on buying a transportation bicycle, and this year my inbox is filled with a stunning variety of very specific questions. I cannot possibly answer them all, so I've been thinking about how to address these types of questions more generally. The problem with the concept of a "transportation bike" is that it can mean pretty much anything, depending on our perspectives and criteria. And so I thought it might help to offer a questionnaire that those looking to buy a new bike can use for reference as they do their own research. In no particular order, I offer you the following questions for consideration:



1. How far will you be riding on a regular basis and how hilly is the route?

While a cushy upright 3-speed is great for shorter trips, for long and hilly commutes a lighter, more aggressive bicycle with derailleur gearing might be more appropriate. And for those who plan to to ride after dark through remote, rural areas, investing in a good lighting package is essential.



2. How do you plan to dress on the bike?

If you'd like to ride in your everyday clothing, your bicycle will need the appropriate features. Step-through and mixte frames are ideal for those who wear skirts and dresses on a regular basis. Fenders are a must to keep clothing clean. Many find chaincases and dressguards to be useful features as well.



3. What sorts of things will you need to carry with you?

Different bikes are designed to carry different amounts of weight, in different ways. Do you plan to carry only a light briefcase and an occasional bag of groceries? Your carpentry tools? Your children and pets?Bags of fertilizer and cement blocks? Heavy-duty loads require not only the appropriate racks, baskets, and child seat attachments, but also a heavier build and an accommodating geometry.



4. Where will the bike be stored, and will it require being carried up and down stairs?

For bicycles stored outside or in garages and sheds, weight and size are of limited importance: You can simply roll the bike out. On the other hand, storing a bike in your 2nd floor apartment means you will have to haul it up and down those stairs, making weight and size serious considerations. Furthermore, not all bicycles are durable enough to be stored outdoors, so if you plan to go that route the bicycle must be designed to withstand the elements.




5. Do you plan to ride the bike in the winter?

Not all bikes do well in winter conditions. Here is a poston useful features for a winter bike.



6. How much maintenance are you willing to perform?

The more complicated and delicate a bicycle is, the more maintenance it will require. Those who do not wish to do their own maintenance and do not live near a good bike shop should opt for simpler, lower-maintance bikes and tires with good puncture protection.



7.What is your skill level as a cyclist?

Not all cyclists pick up skills at the same rate; many struggle with balance and handling issues for years, yet still want to ride. Some bicycles feel more stable and easier for beginners to handle than others. This can make all the difference between whether those cyclists are comfortable riding in traffic.



8. What are your aesthetic preferences?

I strongly believe that there is a benefit to getting a bicycle that you love, that makes you smile. While aesthetic considerations should not override utility, owning a bicycle that you find "lovely" is bound to be more enjoyable.




9.What is your budget?

When determining your budget for a transportation bicycle, I suggest focusing on the transportation and not on the bicycle aspect of that phrase. "How much can I afford to spend on a non-motorised vehicle?" is a good question to ask yourself. Then look for something in that price range, and prepare to be flexible. Transportation is important; don't undermine things like safe handling, good lighting and puncture-resistant tires just to save a few bucks.




Hopefully these ideas are helpful, and any additional thoughts are welcome. Transportation cycling has transformed my life over the past three years and I hope it can do the same for others, regardless of what sort of bicycle works best for them in this role.

Lemony

Lemony, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

A tagetes lemmonii flower in the Desert Botanical Garden near Phoenix, Arizona.

What a great garden : diverse, colorful, and well-designed. When I was there, they had an exhibition of the glass artwork of Dale Chihuly. If you ever have a chance to see Chihuly's amazing work, make sure you don't pass it up - it's incredible.

Crowbait

Here we are in the driveway. And ole' crowbait decided to let lose a big fart and scare himself so that he started crowhopping for a few seconds. I wasn't expecting that.

Tahoma Ski

During our recent spell of high pressure a group of local climbers made a rare winter ascent of the Tahoma Glacier and ski descent from the summit. Thanks to Doug Daniell for the report and photos.



I climbed and skied the Tahoma Glacier with a group of four from Seattle
on January 19-21. I wanted to share some conditions information and
beta for a winter approach from the west side of the mountain. We began
our ascent on the 19th from the Westside Road closure near the park
entrance. We were able to skin from the car (~2150') although coverage
was a few inches at best. We eventually joined Tahoma Creek and except
for a few creek crossings found easy travel. Camped to the west of
Glacier Island on a calm, mild night. On the 20th we skinned up on firm
snow to the glacier, passed a few icefalls on the right, and then
traversed left at 9K to a smooth ramp that led to camp at 10K. Enjoyed a
beautiful sunset and alpenglow on the slopes above.





Sometime before 5am on the 21st we roped up, dropped down to the
north to avoid some looming seracs, and then navigated crevasses and ice
debris to the base of Sickle. We decided on this variation to avoid
what looked like large swaths of glare ice on the main Tahoma. In the
Sickle we found good travel on shallow wind-packed powder and firmer
styrofoam, with patches of ice globs especially higher on the route.
Beautiful Rainier shadow at sunrise though we remained in the cold
ourselves. Brought pickets/screws but none were used. Definitely not a
route to tackle with much avy danger - saw lots of evidence of sluffs
and maybe a well-weathered crown or two. The rest of the way to the
summit was a slog as usual. Great views from Jefferson to Baker, though
the Puget Sound was covered in fog and clouds.



The ski down was a hodgepodge of snow conditions - terrible off the
summit, some nice smooth patches below Liberty saddle, fun steep skiing
through the Sickle, thousands of feet of wind-effect down the glacier,
and then occasionally breakable crust down to the creek. Three of us
completed the full descent and one had a major binding failure high on
the route that entailed lots of walking and some improvised ski-strap
solutions to get out by 10pm.





FYI,
snowmobiles are allowed from the road closure on 410 to White River
Campground, Remember to self-register before your climb or overnight
stay whatever your route may be.

Engagement Day!

Above Image: "Where the Lake becomes the River" - Near the Gunflint Trail in northeast Minnesota, the Brule River resumes its journey toward Lake Superior after flowing through Northern Light Lake.









Last night, under the light of an incredibly surreal moonlit and lightning-filled sky over Lake Superior, I asked the woman I love to marry me. And she said YES! I feel like I'm floating on air today :-)









So, Jessica and I are now officially engaged :-) And what do we do to celebrate our engagement day? We spend it outside, of course! We went paddling on the Brule River and Northern Light Lake along the Gunflint Trail in Northeast Minnesota. It sure was a beautiful day!







Above: Jessica getting lost in the grass where the Brule River flows into Northern Light Lake







Above: The clouds and lily pads were awesome.







Above: It was loads of fun paddling through these reeds. Very interesting to watch them glide magically out of the way as the bow of the kayak nudged them to the side.







Above: Goofing off in the tall grass.