Saturday, November 29, 2008

Chuck Norris and the Mortal, M8r/x, WI7 90m. aka "Chucky"








"Chucky"



Y'all be careful out there!

Banks Lake, Mile Marker 11.2










FA "Chuck Norris & the Mortal"

A2, M8 WI7, 2P, 90m.

Craig Pope, Scott Coldiron, Jan. 31,



Second ascent and

FFA "Chuck Norris & the Mortal", AKA "Chucky"

M8 r/x WI7, 2P, 90m.

Craig Pope, Jess Roskelley, Feb, 2,



Rack:

Small set of nuts

C3's

MasterCams

knifeblades

BD Peckers

BD Specter

Stubbies










Steep intro moves to p1

















P1 ice was de-laminated to the point of rock pro only. Slung a gas pocket.














Shakin off the cold...











Bottom pitch with 2nd Looming above




















More detail of the crazy











Top of 2nd p crux - PUMP!











Delicately sneaking up...











First "rest..."











Sizing up the never ending madness!











Snapping a quick shot - cause I HAD too!! 30 ft out from a BD 000 C3 equalized with
a #1 knifeblade...so wild, even after I cleared a ton if ice...











Peaking out of the hole I carved out of a curtain...SUPER bummed about the fog...











Throwing up a hell yeah before dancing up the last 60 ft.











Looking down into space from the final belay...




http://player.vimeo.com/video/59181866"





editor's note:

Really fun for me to add one of the best mixed climbs I have seen locally and a BIG Congratulations!... to Craig, Jess and Scott for getting it done!

Revisiting Captain Cave Man M7+

Several days ago I heard from Joel Torretti. Joel is a talented PA ice/rock climber that moved away for several years and recently returned to PA and is living up near State College. He was looking to get out and do some tooled climbing. He was excited to be making his first outing of the season. He made the 2.5 hour drive down to our neck of the woods to see what we could do. We checked out the conditions at several of the local areas, SCII and the So. C'ville rod and gun club. Both being not of great condition, we opted to go check out Lower Meadow Run in Ohiopyle. Not to my surprise, the ice was dismal for pure ice climbing. Not a big deal, we opted to get on the great mixed lines. We started on Anger Managment M5 as our warm up. After pumping on that one, Joel tried the obvious "project" line out the center of the cave. Still a project and to all who have tried it, you know why... The next climb we go on was Captain Caveman M7+ a new line that I TRed at the end of last season in much fatter conditions. Joel went first solving the near iceless start to the line. He made it up through the opening moves only to have a crampon slip of and send him into the air. He passed the rope and I tied in for my attempt. I was happy to see Joel smooth the bottom moves (I was a little uncertain that it would go with so little ice). I moved up through the opening making it to the large ledge on the left. I was happy to throw a heel and get a rest. I proceeded to make my way up through the overhanging rockband to the much appreciated ice. The top posed the problem that it was delaminating from the rock like mad. I gently made my way through this section using various dry moves as well as several very insecure ice sticks. I was glad to get it first go. It took me several days of work to get it last year (in much fatter conditions). Joel tied in and took a second go working through the moves and getting a good pump in the process. After our goes on CCM, we went over and did a few laps each on the ever fun Season Finale M6. It was a blast revisiting Captain Cave Man with Joel. Since getting it no falls, first go on TR, I'm really motivated to give it a whirl on the sharp end before it gets wired. Possibly this upcoming week I'll grow a set and do it. I'll be sure to post how it goes. It was a great day climbing with an old friend, I look forward to many great days out this season.

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Black Diamond Express Ice Screws?

Jeff Shapiro climbing hard,fully kitted inBD with a rack of Express screws



I have a couple of drafts started in the blog about eating my words on gear. Hadn't finished any of them of course because it is really hard for me to convince ME, I am ever wrong :) Weak, I know, but here isthe first.









Few that don't know me can understand the time I have spent at my desk or at the workbench in the shop measuring, sharpening or just examiningice screws. A couple of my climbing partners have seen me wind in dual screws at placements on climbs and wondered just how much of a knuckle head I was going to be that day. Andif I could just get on with it!If I am placing dual screws it is generally because I am scared but I can go with the gear testing story when pushed.



But, with all the playing around I at least *think* I know something about ice screws.



When you understand what makes the teeth bite and how much each screw weights and why there isn't much else to understand. Simple pieces of gear really...well pretty simple anyway.



So you have to understand that I know Black Diamond has a better set of teeth than most anyone making screws. And no question the Black Diamond Express screws will take a "set" faster than anything else I use. By taking a "set", what I mean by that is the screw will generally catch the threads with a a single full turn at the wrist and stick in the ice so you can now employ the hanger's crank knob.



True, the Black Diamond screw is faster than the Grivel Helix on the "set".



But in a perfect world you have severalstepsto placing an ice screw, the "set", the wind and finally the clip.



If we have a "set", then the wind and finally the clip to eachscrew placement theneach step is equally important to me. On difficult climbing how long it takes me to fully place a screw defines how many screws I will place. I can decide to place screws inseveral ways. The first is by the difficulty of the climbing. I place screws often because I am likely to fall off at any given moment. Thatis not how I like to climb on ice. Umbilicals are my first line of defense so my preferred wayis to place fewer screws. It is an old habit I have from the days when screws were extremely hard to place. None of the screws available now have that unenviable reputation. So thescrews I do place better be bomber and take as little time as possible to get in. Time is a factor because if the climbing is difficult and steep, endurance and strength is always inquestion. I want to end the pitch strong enough to finish with a reserve. I don't want to ever fall on ice.



So from my own observations I thinkthat the BDExpress is the first screw to "set". If it only ended there the conversation would be over. Next up is the wind. So your screw is set and there is little fear of it launching into space unattended. You can now grab your winding knoband sink the screw to the hilt. Done. Almost finishedhere...snap a QD or slingbiner on. Thengrab your rope to make the final clip. And now you are off again climbingor just as likely, relieved,taking a mental break and shaking your arms with no risk of catching big air.



Whaaaoooo! Not quite that fast. There are a couple of steps we missed here. You likely are a smart climber so you racked all your Express screws with the winding knob up and open right? Well I don't. So I "set", then turn my winding knob up, (good place to kick a "free" screw loose into space), then I start to wind. Sink the screw, clip the screw, then clip the rope and finally flip the knob down. Gotta remember to flip that knob down. ( can't wait to hear how everyone else muddles through this better than me, as obviously many do:)



So easy to see my dilemma with a fast "bite" as oppose to a fast screw placement. I like the Express and own a rack of them specifically for hard alpine ice. They are lighter than anything available and they 'set" amazingly fast. But they don't placefast enoughto be my preferred screw onwater fall climbing.



*Since I am looking at thedetailshereI had forgotten this one. I think the offset hanger on the BD screws encourages you to start the wind off center to the axis of the screw. So you get a wobbly start if you are notvery careful. Obviously you can over come this with practice. But for the newbie or gumbie like myself it is annoying. The hand position on the Helix (at least for my XL size hands) naturally encourages you to be more centered to the axis of the screw on your *set*. That alone almost makes up for the better design on the BD teeth imo. And in practice makes the *set* on the Helix almost as fast, if not as fast, as the BD screw for me.



What I would liketo see is the BD tube and teethwith a totally new hanger. No knob to futz with, but a big winder, a hanger that naturally centers your hand for a straight drive on the *set* and keep the BD weight advantage.Easy enough to do. BD has the technology in house right now for a hanger as I described it. I had come to the same conclusion last winter just got there from a totally different train of thought. Not likely to happen any time soon though :) No one convinced it is needed except me.*



Damn, just wish my own screw of choice"set" that fast though......gotta think some more on this :)





Jeff again, on the 5th pitch, STH, Provo Canyon

More here on the BD Express screw:http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//01/be-attentive-when-placing-ice-screws.html

Kitten Energy

Oh, to have the energy of an 8 month old kitten.
Willey attacking Murphy.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Bobcat Valentine



Jackpot! Two bobcats (Lynx rufus or Felis rufus) traveling together.

I'm assuming that this is a male and female, since it's bobcat breeding season.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Bridge Across the Ditch

This little bridge that was on the pathway to the river trail is over one of the main irrigation ditches that take water to irrigate the small farms along the Rio Grande River.











Monday, November 24, 2008

Black Diamond Prime Ski boot

Here is BD's catalog speil:



The Prime is Black Diamond's premier lightweight alpine touring boot-designed to tackle the world's most challenging ski mountaineering routes or simply to save your legs for one last powder lap. This is our lightest alpine touring boot, featuring a unique 3.5-buckle design that skis with the stiffness and control of a 4-buckle boot. Its state-of-the-art construction keeps weight to an absolute minimum, while our revolutionary Pivoting Cuff Technology delivers the ultimate combination of freedom of motion in walk mode and instant power transfer in ski mode.





Black Diamond Prime Ski Boot Features:

• Lightweight (1.64 kg) 3-buckle alpine touring boot with 4-buckle performance

• Triax Pivot Frame with Flex 110 and unmatched 40° of resistance-free touring motion

• Efficient Fit AT Light Liner with lightweight Boa closure system

• Rockered, rubber outsole with integrated tech inserts provides dramatic grip and durability

• Weight Per Pair: 7lbs. 4oz.

• Flex Index: 110

• Number of Buckles: 3







Here is mine:



In the past I've spent a lot of time in ski boots. Over a decade working full time at ski areas in different jobs including pro patrol, avalanche control and a tiny bit of teaching. I've back country ski guided on 3 pin, tele gear and AT gearand heli skied. All of it in the NW or western Canada. Right up till this week.



I've had some great boots and some not so great boots. But a warm boot and one that fit my foot hasn't been all that hard to come by. I had orthotics made for me in the early '80s and continue to use a good footbed, custom made for my feet and stance.



So I was pretty stoked to get a new alpine touringboot knowing what was in store for me this winter in France. Having generallyskied in a competition style boot I was looking for ski/boot performance over a super light weight boot. Although I might rethink that decision on my next pair. No matter, comfort is the real key for me in any boot, climbing or skiing.



The Black Diamond Prime is a three buckle boot that uses a Y strap on the first buckle to avoid the 4th buckle and save a tiny bit of weight. But as a "new generation" AT boot, it is not light weight by any measure.



But theydo indeed ski very well.Pretty much like a performace ski boot from what I can tell. Nothing lacking on this boot for performance...I could use it on a pair of old school 207cm GS skis cruising at mach 1 and be happy with the support.



In the morning walking the 15 minutes to the Midi tram from my apartment here in Chamonix I curse the walk mode. My toes are banging, the rigid sole is....well rigid There is never enough flex in a ski boot to make them walk "well." They may walk but it isn't going to be a pleasure. The skiday hereisgenerally half dozenruns and 20 THOUSAND vertical feet if I can stand up that long. By then I am happy to unlatch and unbuckle for the walkfrom the train to the coffee house. And I love how easy the Primes walk then and the finaltwo blocks back to the apartment.



Life isn't hard on AT boots or your feet here unless you make it that way.



So they ski great, and they walk...like a few of the betterAT boots I figure. Which is well enough to keep you from crying at the end of the day here in Chamonix or on the long day trips at Rodgers pass...where the train is generally avoided.



Butttttttttt?! There is always a but. I didthree trips to my local boot fitter at home with these boots before I left. Which is excessive even for me.The inner boot was tight. Too tight. You get the idea....it was getting ugly. All to no avail. Each time we remeasured the shell. Remember I wanted a "performace fit". Each time we all agreed the shell was perfect. Calls to BD Custoemr service and discussions with guys there who actually wear the same size climbing boot as me, all...once more.....agreed on shell size.



Two of the trips to the boot fitter at home would have been ski days. But the boots were killing me. The third trip I just flatly ran out of time to ski in them againbefore flying to France.But they were a bit better with each visit. "Better" being a relative term.



First run herewas a 15K and 5000 of vertical down from 11K feet. Think skiing from the summit of Mt. Hood to the parking lot at Meadows...or whereever 10 miles and a 5000 ft drop in elevation would put you.







At 10K feet I had to have helppulling my boot off and message away a cramp. Unbelievably hard to get the boot off let alone back on at home. Imagine that in 40mph winds and -15C. I have never been happy with the Boa system on any boot I have used. And the liners on the Primes just reinforce that opinion.The Boa sucks. One of the most unplesant 4 hrs I have ever spent in any boot finishing up the Mer De Glace. and walking home from the train. And that includes walking off the summit of Rainier as my toes unthawed. This was worse that walking down from Muir in socks.



My next move was find a BD ski boot dealer in Chamonix. And most importantly someone who was REALLY good at fitting boots.Easy enough to do here. Ths place is over flowing with good gear shops and expert staff. (amazing really just how many and how good!)



No problem they tell me..10 Euro per boot. They take 20 minutes looking at, measuring and marking my boot shells and liners. I am a little worried. The guys at home are good and I am beginning to think this boot will never be comfortable on my feet. I'm in Chamonix for chrimney sake...I have to have ski boots I can wear just to get to the climbs. And the skiing? No place has skiing like Chamonix.



As I am leaving I notice that have several different models of Palau custom liners on one little corner wall. Palaus are kinda like Intuition Liners back in the States just better made over all. I own a pair Intuition myself. But I also have some Palau liners made for the La Sportiva Baruntse I use in my Spantiks. The Palau liner is amuch better liner that the Intuition imo. I turn around and we start the bootfitting converstion all over again.



Over lapping tongue on the Palau is much easier to get in and out of than the Boa on the BD liner. Liners are warmer as well besides the obvious added comfort (dbl tongue for example) even if the BD liner did actually fit.



The retail sales mentality is different in France. You aren't goingto be pushed into buying anything. Lucky in fact if you can get the sales staff to help you, let alone answer a question. Sometimes it is annoying. But I kind of like it generally. You can look at anything and no one will bug you asking, "can I help you?" Which can so often sound like "buy something or get the hell out of here!" in the USA. When I start asking questions on the Palauliners I am politely told they didn't want to sell me something I didn't need. But going on, in their opinion, as a BD dealer,all the BD boots came with liners too small for the shell. Which certainly would seem to be my problem when looking at and trying to fit my factory liners. And the boot fitter goes on, "almost every BD boot they have sold had the liner replaced with a Palau".



BD boots are notcheap here! But it does say something for the performance of the BD shell.



Theopinions expressed by theStaff after I was fittted and the liners were paid for were even more to the point. Sanglard, Chamonix's premier ski boot fitter.













20 minutes and 150 Euro later the Palua "Soft" liners were expertly fitted and molded with my orthodics. Same orthotics that I couldn't even get in the BD liners. The next day I skied 15K vert in 2 hours and spent a total of 5 hrs in my boots walking, eating a great lunch and skiing. I dropped off a nice bottle of wine that night formysales person/ boot fitter.



Happy now in his new liners on the start of the 15k run down from the Midi.







I now like my BD Primes. But it might wellbe a one night stand, 'cuz I aint in love.



Palau liners...designed, patented , serial numberedand made in France.

BD Boa liners.... designed in SLC, made in Thailand

http://www.ets.palau.fr/



For more on AT ski gear, gear reviews and opinions, this is the US destination on the internet:



http://www.wildsnow.com/





Palau liners in my Primes.